When Brandon Marek, the managing partner of Harlo Entertainment hospitality group, reached out to architecture and design studio Odami about envisioning a Japanese steakhouse in Toronto’s financial district, the timing couldn’t have been better. Marek had just returned from a cross-country research trip that helped him and his executive chef, Jia Zou, hone their vision for what would go on to become Shinji. Coincidentally, Odami co-founders Arancha González Bernardo and Michael Fohring had made their own trip to Japan a few months prior. In turn, the three collaborators drew from their on-the-ground experience to develop a space that avoids overused clichés in favour of more thoughtful tributes to Japanese culture.
The meat — or the wagyu, so to speak — of the project is a long stone chef’s table, which takes pride of place in a central area that would typically be dedicated to the bar. Instead, the skill of the restaurant’s chefs (who serve up everything from nigiri to striploin) is put on central display. In line with Shinji’s respect for wholesome, well-prepared ingredients, Odami defines this zone with natural rather than engineered stone and locally sourced ash wood rather than wood-look veneer. (The latter material extends to the dining tables and seating, too.) Marek notes this commitment to authenticity actually sparked concern from one of the project’s contractors. “He called me to say that the woodgrains didn’t match,” he says. “But that’s how you know it’s real. Trees aren’t identical.”
Another reference to craft takes the form of the indigo hue that soaks the restaurant’s limewash walls — a nod to Japan’s celebrated denim industry. “Equally at home as workwear or couture, denim derives its richness from wear, time, and repeated use,” Odami explains in its project description. Shinji’s entryway goes all-in on this inky treatment to create a soothing buffer from busy Bay Street outside. From there, a long, gradually sloped indigo hallway leads up to the dining area, extending the arrival journey to build intrigue.
As guests enter Shinji’s signature space, the restaurant’s light wood tables, bench seating and chairs introduce a strong contrast to the deep blue tone that continues throughout, also extending to the restaurant’s upholstery and acoustic baffling. Ultimately, the dining room’s dynamic between light and dark creates an atmosphere that is both rich and airy, while also keeping circulation routes clear and intuitive.
Continuing the project’s embrace of elevated industrial character, rows of slender linear pendant lights run down the spine of the room, leading eyes to the glowing orange bar tucked at the back and an adjacent corridor that connects to the washrooms. In this rear alleyway, Odami throws a curveball, lining the walls in glowing tubes that cycle through various neon hues. The effect recalls the glowing signs that define Japanese nightlife — and its karaoke bars in particular.
As it turns out, this musical interlude sets the scene for the “radio station” that soundtracks the restrooms just beyond. Inspired by the music that he heard playing in Japanese washrooms throughout his trip, Marek recreated the playlist (which moves from Elvis to the Beatles) and hired a Japanese voice actor to serve as Shinji’s own personal disc jockey in a looped recording. In a welcome splurge, each of the stalls boasts one of Japan’s signature Toto smart toilets, complete with an entire remote control panel’s worth of spraying and drying functions. “They’re everywhere in Japan,” says Marek. “Even if it’s just a gas station washroom on the side of the road.” In Toronto, of course, they’re a rare luxury — but the democratic spirit that Marek invokes speaks to Shinji’s mission to deliver sophistication without pretension.
That philosophy is echoed in other playful touches — like the anime posters in the bathroom, and the plush stuffed animal that sits on a shelf behind the central grill. Both serve as further evidence that, as meticulously considered as Shinji’s dishes and dining environment may be, this isn’t a place that takes itself too seriously. In Japan, the best craftspeople are also the most humble.
The post At Shinji, Soulful Japanese References Range from Denim to Karaoke Bars appeared first on Azure Magazine.
