The simple Milanesa boasts a compliated global history. A scroll through about the iconic breaded cutlet yields links to the national cuisines of Argentina, Austria, Bolivia, Brazil, Chile, and Poland, to name a just a few. And while some claim that the dish originates in Lombardy’s eponymous metropolis — where the closely related cotoletta alla milanese remains a menu mainstay — others insist that Italian immigrants only invented the delicacy after landing in Argentina. Or maybe it’s really a variant of the wiener schnitzel? At Mexico City’s newly opened Oralé Milanga, however, the tangle of narratives is part of the fun.
Designed by — a boutique local studio led by Andrés Mier y Terán and Regina Galvanduque — the casual yet refined Oralé Milanga restaurant is a welcoming addition to the capital city’s . Taking over a narrow site on a prominent street corner, the intimate eatery evokes Milanese cafés and restaurants while introducing an eclectic local flair.
Past the tall glass windows, the space unfolds in a carefully balanced medley of motifs and design gestures. A vivid olive green hue immediately catches the eye, stretching across the industrial ironwork and accenting the plush seats. A wavy metal sieve mesh — in the same tone — adorns the walls, lending the surfaces a sense of depth, while hinting at a grid of ceramic tile. The industrial details are deftly paired with soft LED lighting and warm wood tones to create a comfortable ambiance.
At the front of the restaurant, a banquette sits alongside the market-like shelving, while the more moody bar area at the back overlooks the open kitchen. In both spaces, casual Formica tabletops are framed by blonde wood, making for an informal yet elegant setting. Upstairs, a loft-style second floor dining room overlooks both the street level and room below.
As for the food? Chef Jorge Udelman’s menu is dominated by a single star dish. Like the space around it, the humble milanesa works for everything from a quick weekday bite to a casual brunch or a romantic, leisurely dinner. At Oralé Milanga, you can’t go wrong with your order.
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