Looking for an easy crochet sweater? The Brooklyn Sweater is the perfect top-down everyday sweater that is beginner-friendly and quick! Scroll down for this free crochet cardigan pattern and step-by-step video tutorial or purchase the .
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Sometimes simple is best! The Brooklyn Sweater is created for stylish comfort that’s effortless to wear and easy to crochet. The beginner-friendly top down construction means that this pattern has absolutely no sewing and you can try on your sweater as you crochet! Made with super chunky yarn, this crochet sweater works up quickly and pairs effortlessly with high-waisted jeans or over dresses ? The Brooklyn Sweater will be your go-to pullover during colder months!
Top Down Sweater Construction
The Brooklyn Sweater is a top down sweater that’s worked in the round. Projects worked in the round are joined together with a slip stitch – think of it as crocheting in a circle as opposed to rows that are worked back and forth.
We’ll start by crocheting the neckline ribbing with front and back post double crochets. Then we’ll extend the yoke by placing 3 double crochets in the same stitch in each corner. For increases, stitch markers are your best friend! They are great because instead of having to count your stitches multiple times each row, so can just crochet until you reach the stitch marker.
After we’ve increased the yoke, we’ll separate out the body from the two sleeves. The joining row is a great time to try on your sweater and make sure it fits. You want to have enough space in the armholes so that your arms can move freely and for the sweater to feel comfortable across your bust.
If you want to make alterations simply undo the joining row and then remove rounds of the yoke to make the sweater smaller or add rounds to make the sweater larger.
From the joining row, we’ll crochet the body and you can extend it to any length you want. Again, try on your sweater to find the perfect length for you. If you want a longer sweater, just add more rows. If you want a shorter sweater, remove them. The only thing to consider is that the ribbing at the end will add about 2cm/0.75” of length to your sweater.
To crochet the sleeves, you’ll insert your crochet hook along the open armholes and then double crochet rounds until you reach your desired length for the sleeves. If you alter your sleeves, don’t forget to note down the exact number of rounds. This way you can make sure that both sleeves are the same length. Weave in your ends and then your all done!
Simple Stitch: Double Crochet
The bulk of the Brooklyn Sweater is made up of double crochets with front and back post double crochets used for the neckline, hemline and cuff ribbing. This beginner friendly stitch works up super quickly and combined with the super bulky yarn, this sweater will fly off your hook. You’ll be able to crochet this cosy sweater in an evening or two!
No Turning Chain Stitch
The only downside to double crochets is that the turning chain (of 2 chains) can be quite noticeable when working in the round. However, we can easily fix the visible seam by crocheting a ‘no turning chain’ stitch. The no turning chain stitch counts as 1 double crochet. You can find a tutorial in the step-by-step video below.
Print and crochet
I know lots of you prefer printed pattern so that you can crochet offline and on the couch.You can always find a of all my free patterns. This nicely-formatted pdf contains 7 pages, a link to the video tutorial and photo tutorial.
If you prefer to highlight your size and make notes as you crochet, you’ll also find the PDF to be a really valuable upgrade! It’s perfect for viewing on your phone, laptop or tablet.
Design Inspiration
My first ever pattern was a top down sweater top (Check out the !) and it’s been months since I’ve designed a top down garment. Since seaming (and weaving in ends) is my least favourite part of a project, I wanted to create a sweater with as little sewing as possible!
Top down sweaters have so many advantages, you can try the sweater on as you to achieve perfect fit and secondly, you can pick your ideal length for the body and the sleeves.
This pattern begins with a simple ribbed neckline and you work your way down the yoke. In the joining row you separate the sleeves from the body and continue to crochet the body until you have the exact length you want.
If you’re wary about crochet projects in the round due to the seam running down the back of the body, don’t worry! You can use a stitch called a ‘no turning chain’ (demonstrated in the video tutorial) the seam becomes nearly invisible! I really recommend trying it out as it will give your sweater a more ‘finished’ look ?
Check out more free crochet patterns here!
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Yarn
For this project I used in the shade ‘Katmai’. It’s a lovely light warm grey with a slightly marled texture. If you look closely, all the Heartland yarns are two-toned which gives the yarn a great dimension and texture.
This yarn has a super soft, silky feel and I can hardly believe it’s 100% acrylic! Since, is acrylic the sweater is a lot lighter than wool super bulky yarn and it’s also on the thinner side of a super bulky yarn so this sweater is a lot more wearable for everyday life!
Update: Lionbrand Heartland Thick and Quick has been discontinued ? Similar yarns are –
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You’re looking for a yarn that has a soft, silky feel that isn’t too heavy per 100g. Acrylic and acrylic blends are best but most super chunky yarns work well as a substitute as long as you can meet the gauge listed in the pattern ?
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Video Tutorial
Looking to crochet your first sweater? This boxy crochet pullover combines beginner-friendly stitches and super chunky yarn to work up quickly! You’ll be wearing this sweater in no time!
Notes:
*The size guide follows size XS(S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL). E.g. “Ch 100(116, 132, 148, 164, 180, 196) means Ch 100 for XS, Ch 116 for Small, Ch 132 for Medium, Ch 148 for Large, Ch 164 for XL, Ch 180 for 2XL and Ch 196 for 3XL. If there is only one number, it applies to all sizes.
*”DC 10″ means DC into the next 10 stitches.
*”3DC” means place 3 DC into the same stitch.
*Ch 3 always counts as a stitch unless otherwise noted. You can replace ch 3 with a ‘no turning chain’ to reduce the visible seam.’
*Ch 1 does NOT count as a stitch.
*Total stitches are indicated between < >.
*This pattern uses US crochet terms.
LEVEL: Easy
Materials
Yarn – – 14ply/Super Chunky/Super Bulky(6), 114m/142g, 100% Acrylic, Katmai (151)
5(5, 6, 6, 7, 8, 9) skeins
*Add 1-2 skeins if you’d like to make your sweater longer
9mm (US M) Crochet Hook
4 stitch markers
Darning Needle
Stitches & Abbreviations
Ch = Chain
Sl st = Slip Stitch
SC = Single Crochet
DC = Double Crochet
DC2tog = Double Crochet 2 Stitches Together
FpDC = Front Post Double Crochet
BpDC = Back Post Double Crochet
St(s) = Stitch(es)
Rep = Repeat
GAUGE: 10cm/4” square = 7.5 stitches wide x 5 rows tall in Double Crochet
Measurements cm:
To fit bust: 76(86, 96, 106, 116, 126, 136)
Chest width: 44(47, 50, 52, 55, 60, 65)
Length: 40(42, 44, 46, 48, 52, 56)
Sleeve length: 40(40, 40, 40, 40, 40, 40)
Measurements inches:
To fit bust: 30(34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 54)
Chest width: 17.5(18.5, 19.5, 20.5, 21.5, 23.5, 25.5)
Length: 16(16.5, 17.5, 18, 19, 20.5, 22)
Sleeve length: 16(16, 16, 16, 16, 16, 16)
Add the !
!
Chunky Crochet Sweater Pattern
YOKE
FOUNDATION CHAIN: All sizes, ch 48, sl st into 1st ch to join.
ROUND 1: Ch 1, SC 48, sl st to join.
<48>
ROUND 2: Ch 3, FpDC, *BpDC, FpDC; rep from * until end, sl st to join.
<48>
ROUND 3: Ch 3, DC 7, 3DC – insert st marker on top of 2nd st in the 3DC cluster, DC 7, 3DC – insert st marker on top of 2nd st in the 3DC cluster, DC 15, 3DC – insert st marker on top of 2nd st in the 3DC cluster, DC 7, 3DC – insert st marker on top of 2nd st in the 3DC cluster, DC 7, sl st to join, turn.
<56>
*After each 3DC cluster move the st maker on top of the 2nd st.
ROUND 4: Ch 3, DC 8, 3DC, DC 9, 3DC, DC 17, 3DC, DC 9, 3DC, DC 8, sl st to join, turn.
<64>
ROUND 5: Ch 3, DC 9, 3DC, DC 11, 3DC, DC 19, 3DC, DC 11, 3DC, DC 9, sl st to join, turn.
<72>
ROUND 6: Ch 3, *DC in each st until the st marker, 3DC into the st with a st marker; rep from * three more times, DC in each st until the end of the round, sl st to join, turn.
<80>
Repeat ROUND 6 until ROUND 10(11, 12, 13, 14, 16, 18).
<112(120, 128, 136, 144, 160, 176)>
*Do not fasten off. We’ll now separate the armholes from the body.
JOINING ROUND: Ch 3, DC in each st until a st marker, DC into st with a st marker, DC into next st with a st marker (you have created your 1st armhole). DC in each st until next st marker, DC into st with a st marker, DC into next st with a st marker (you have created your 2nd armhole). DC in each st until the end of the round, sl st to join, turn.
<66(70, 74, 78, 82, 90, 98)>
*I suggest trying on your sweater – your arms should be able to move freely in the armholes and the joining row fit comfortably around your bust.
For a tighter fit – remove JOINING ROUND and remove rounds of ROUND 6.
For a looser fit – remove JOINING ROUND and add rounds of ROUND 6.
BODY
ROUND 1: Ch 3, DC in each st until end, st sl to join, turn.
<66(70, 74, 78, 82, 90, 98)>
ROUND 2: Ch 3, DC 15, DC2tog, DC 35, DC2tog, DC in each st until end, st sl to join, turn.
<64(68, 72, 76, 80, 88, 96)>
ROUND 3: Ch 3, DC in each st until end, st sl to join, turn.
<64(68, 72, 76, 80, 88, 96)>
ROUND 4: Ch 3, DC 15, DC2tog, DC 33, DC2tog, DC in each st until end, st sl to join, turn.
<62(66, 70, 74, 78, 86, 94)>
ROUND 5: Ch 3, DC in each st until end, st sl to join, turn.
<62(66, 70, 74, 78, 86, 94)>
Repeat ROUND 5 until ROUND 8.
<62(66, 70, 74, 78, 86, 94)>
*You can add or remove rounds to make your sweater longer or shorter – please note: the ribbing adds 2cm/0.75”
RIBBING ROUND: Ch3, FpDC, *BpDC, FpDC; rep from * until end, sl st to join. Fasten off.
<62(66, 70, 74, 78, 86, 94)>
SLEEVES
Insert hook along edge of the sleeve, secure yarn and pull through a loop.
*To hide the seam, make sure that the back of your sweater is facing you (the side with the line of ch 3/no turning chains), insert your hook into the st with a st marker. Also make sure that the final row of the yoke has the wrong side facing you.
ROUND 1: Ch 3, DC in each st around (including the sts with a st marker), place 2 DC2tog in between the st markers, st sl to join, turn.
<27(29, 31, 33, 35, 39, 43)>
ROUND 2: Ch 3, DC in each st until end, st sl to join, turn.
<27(29, 31, 33, 35, 39, 43)>
ROUND 3: Ch 3, DC2tog, DC in each st until end, sl st to join, turn.
<26(28, 30, 32, 34, 38, 42)>
ROUND 4: Ch 3, DC in each st until end, st sl to join, turn.
<26(28, 30, 32, 34, 38, 42)>
Repeat ROUNDS 3-4 until ROUND 18.
<19(21, 23, 25, 27, 31, 35)>
ROUND 19: Ch 3, DC in each st until end, st sl to join, turn.
*Try on your sweater. You can add or remove ROUND 19 to make your sleeves longer or shorter – please note: the ribbing adds 2cm/0.75”.
RIBBING ROUND: Ch 3, *FpDC, BpDC; rep from * until end, sl st to join. Fasten off.
<19(21, 23, 25, 27, 31, 35)>
Repeat for 2nd sleeve.
*Make sure both sleeves have the same number of rows!
Weave in all of your ends.
Voilà! You’ve finished your Brooklyn Crochet Sweater ?
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