Hey guys! It’s Shara here from
This storage chest is a very simple design with mitered corners and some baseboard trim around the bottom. This simple design helps it easily blend into any style in your home–modern, farmhouse, traditional.
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Building Plan + Tutorial: How to Build a Wooden Storage Chest
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So, if you’re ready to get building, here’s what you need:
Tools and Materials:
- Circular Saw (and AccuCut saw guide)
- Jig Saw
- Table Saw (optional)
- Band Clamp or Ratchet Straps
- Nail Gun
- Miter Saw
- (1) Sheet 3/4″ plywood
- (1) 2x2x8 (for inside corner supports)
- (1) 10′ stick of 3 1/4″ baseboard trim
- Glue On Edge Banding
- (1) 30″ piano hinge
- (1) pair soft closing lid hinges (optional)
- Wood Glue
- Brad Nails
- 1 1/4″ wood screws
- (2) 3/4″ x 16″ x 34″ with 45 degree beveled ends (box front and back sides)
- (2) 3/4″ x 16″ x 17″ with 45 degree beveled ends (box short sides)
- (1) 3/4″ x 15 1/2″ x 32 1/2″ (box bottom)
- (1) 3/4″ x 18″ x 36″ (box top)
- (4) 2×2 @ 14 1/2″ (see step 7 below)
- Baseboard Trim cut to fit
Step 1: Cut Box Sides
This box was made with mitered corners for a cleaner look. This makes this project a little more challenging. If you wish, feel free to not miter the corners and just join the boards by butting them together. However if you choose to miter them like I did, you can do this with either a table saw, or a circular saw.
First, use an Accucut or a straight edge to trim down the plywood box side pieces to 16″ wide and about 36″ long so they are manageable sizes to work with. Then, cut the 45 degree bevels on my table saw to get the exact sizes listed in the cut list. But, if you don’t want to use a table saw, a circular saw with blade tilted to 45 degrees and a straight edge work just as good (if not better). If you choose not to miter the corners, skip this step. And also, if you don’t miter the corners, you need to adjust your short side pieces to be only 15 1/2″ long.
Step 2: Cut a Slot on the Front Side Piece
I’m not sure the correct term for this, but I wanted a slot on the front along the top to help prevent smashed fingers. For this, use a straight edge and a round object to trace out where you wanted your slot. Then, cut along the line with a jig saw.
Step 3: Finish the Edges
This is optional, but gives the project a more finished look. Apply glue on edge banding to the top edges of your plywood box pieces using an iron. I use tin foil between the iron and the edge banding to help keep glue from getting on my iron.
Step 4: Glue the Sides Together
Now, this is the hard part. It’s helpful to have some clamping jigs or an extra set of hands (so grab a friend!) for this. Lay out your side pieces with the miters facing up and apply wood glue in the grooves.
Then, carefully fold up your side.
I found out later that it’s easiest to do this with the sides standing up instead of lying down like the picture above. Shoot a couple brad nails into the corner to hold the corner in place while you work your way around to get all the sides together.
Once you have all your corners glued together and nailed, quickly move onto the next steps before the glue dries.
Step 5: Add Bottom of Box
Cut the bottom for the plywood box and insert in place. It should fit snug between all the side pieces.
Carefully flip the box over and use some 1 1/4″ wood screws to attach in place along all the edges.
Step 6: Clamp Sides Together
Now, if your corners aren’t perfect or your box isn’t square, use a band clamp or ratchet strap to wrap around the box to hold all the corners until the glue is dry. If you still have some gaps or the corners still aren’t perfect, you can fix that later.
Step 7: Add Inside Corner Braces
I added some scrap blocks to the inside corners for extra support once the glue had dried. To make these blocks, I cut a couple strips of a scrap 2x board with my blade tilted 45 degrees on my table saw. You could also do this with a circular saw, or simply use some 2×2 blocks. This just gives the corners a little extra holding support. Glue and nail (or screw if you wish) these blocks into each corner.
Step 8: Add Trim on Bottom
Cut to fit the baseboard trim along the bottom of the box. Miter the corners at 45 degrees on your miter saw so they line up nicely at the corners. Simply glue and nail each piece in place and work your way around all the sides.
Step 9: Cut the Top
Cut the top of the box according to the cut list and apply edge banding on the sides for a cleaner look.
Step 10: Putty the Corners and Finish
Putty the corners of the box and the trim and also putty all the nail holes. Once it’s dry, give it a good sanding and paint or stain however you wish. I used Minwax Early American wood stain and sealed it with a couple coats of Minwax Polycrylic. It’s easier to go ahead and finish the box before attaching the top.
Step 11: Attach the Top
Using a 30″ piano hinge, attach the top to the box. I found it easiest to attach the hinge to the top first, then attach that to the box. As an optional step, you can also add some soft close hinge supports to the sides if you wish. And that’s it! You have a pretty new storage chest!
I love how simple this design is, but if you are looking for a different style, be sure to check out this
You can dress up this design easily by adding some extra trim or molding along the sides, too, if you wanted. It’s so easy to add your own touch to.
I hope you enjoyed this build! Until next time, happy building!