Also I think it’s safe to say, the time of strict neutrals is a thing of the past, bring on the colour (plus, I think, mixed prints…!)
II. Started with the back piece – Sewed the middle seam up until the extensions that make the vent. Then notched the seam allowance, pressed the seam open, and flipped the vent pieces to one side. I finished the upper layer with just a simple single fold and the one underneath I blind stitched..
.. And on the right side, added a diagonal stitch at the top of the vent to secure the two layers in place.
III. Onto the collar. I sewed the shoulder seams of the main jacket pieces, and then used the neckline as the guide to cut the collar piece x2.
Then took one of the collar pieces I just cut, and pinned and sewed it in place, first only along the straight edge:
.. Then notched the coat front pieces at the corner:
Which makes it easier to pivot the collar piece and pin the rest of it in place:
After sewing those seams, the collar starts to look like a collar:
IV. Next up is the lining piece. Repeat the same steps:
And press the seams open:
(At this point I also cut off the excess from the seam allowance)
Also press open the seams on the jacket itself, apart from the seam allowance on the back piece – press that upwards towards the collar.
V. Then it’s time to pin the lining to the coat, right sides facing, and sew all around.
🚨This is where I made my mistake, just sewing completely absent-minded. For the collar seam to align with the notch, you need to pivot the stitch exactly at that seam (blue arrow). I for some reason decided to pivot next to it… So had to rip the seam open and redo it, and because I had gone as far as cutting a notch at the corner, I had to compensate and create a bit of a curve on the lower part of the collar ‘triangle’.
I didn’t mind though, it turned out ok (you can see the slight curve in the next image).
VI. Once that was done, I folded the lining at the edge and pinned it on the reverse (the top of it, which aligns with the shoulder seam, I tucked under the seam allowance there). Hand-sewed the whole thing in place.