I’ve made a couple of notched collar jackets before, but this one I’m particularly pleased with, because I messed up in the process but was able to salvage the situation¬†ūüôĆ

Also I think it’s safe to say, the time of strict neutrals is a thing of the past, bring on the colour (plus, I think, mixed prints…!)

TOOLS:
Fabric (I used a relatively thick crepe, 3 m of full width for the jacket and shorts which I cut super economically, so about 2 m for the jacket to be safe)  |  Scissors  |  Thread  |  Sewing machine & Serger  (the zipper was for the shorts

I. My cut front pieces + lining pieces (they’re layered on top if you look closely).
.. And back pieces:

II. Started with the back piece – Sewed the middle seam up until the extensions that make the vent. Then notched the seam allowance, pressed the seam open, and flipped the vent pieces to one side. I finished the upper layer with just a simple single fold and the one underneath I blind stitched..

.. And on the right side, added a diagonal stitch at the top of the vent to secure the two layers in place.

 III. Onto the collar. I sewed the shoulder seams of the main jacket pieces, and then used the neckline as the guide to cut the collar piece x2.

Then took one of the collar pieces I just cut, and pinned and sewed it in place, first only along the straight edge:

 .. Then notched the coat front pieces at the corner:

 Which makes it easier to pivot the collar piece and pin the rest of it in place:

 After sewing those seams, the collar starts to look like a collar:

IV. Next up is the lining piece. Repeat the same steps:

 And press the seams open:

 (At this point I also cut off the excess from the seam allowance)

 Also press open the seams on the jacket itself, apart from the seam allowance on the back piece Рpress that upwards towards the collar.

¬†V. Then it’s time to pin the lining to the coat, right sides facing, and sew all around.

¬†ūüö®This is where I made my mistake, just sewing completely absent-minded. For the collar seam to align with the notch, you need to pivot the stitch exactly at that seam (blue arrow). I for some reason decided to pivot next to it… So had to rip the seam open and redo it, and because I had gone as far as cutting a notch at the corner, I had to compensate and create a bit of a curve on the lower part of the collar ‘triangle’.

I didn’t mind though, it turned out ok (you can see the slight curve in the next image).

VI. Once that was done, I folded the lining at the edge and pinned it on the reverse (the top of it, which aligns with the shoulder seam, I tucked under the seam allowance there). Hand-sewed the whole thing in place.

VII. At the hem, before hand-sewing the lining all the way, I turned the reverse side out and sewed the lining to the hem of the jacket, clipped the corner, and pushed it out. 
The rest of the hem I finished with a slither of fabric, which you can see in the first image below. 
Last step was to add the sleeves. Man I love yellow.
xo,
Julia

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