How to make pajama pants without a pattern! If you’re short on time or feel like simple pajama pants shouldn’t require a ton of work, follow this easy tutorial and see how to sew them up without having to buy a pattern.
Sewing diy pajama pants is an easy project that feels very rewarding because they sew up so fast, fit issues are rare since they’re supposed to be loose and comfy, and they are perfect for colorful knit fabric! If you sew holiday jammies, this is a faster way to do it instead of printing multiple sizes and trying to get everyone’s exact measurements as well.
This post was sponsored by, which means they supplied some of the materials and compensated me for my time, but all opinions are my own.
If you’re wondering how much fabric to make pajama pants, you can squeak out most kids sizes with just a yard of knit fabric; I had so much fun sewing with this halloween-ish that my daughter is excited to wear. You could whip up a whole set of these with an afternoon of sewing; if your kids don’t have baggy event shirts that double as pajama wear, just find a simple tshirt or raglan pattern to make coordinating tops!
Check out these other posts while you’re here!
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Another bonus – there is no front and back! What wouldn’t fit well in normal pants is perfect for jammies, and my kids love that there’s no “backwards”. This wouldn’t work as well for older kids who have hit puberty or adults, but it’s perfect for little ones and just ends up being baggier in the front to still fit fine in the back.
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Ready to make your own?
How to make pajama pants without a pattern
Supplies
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- 1 yard of a
- 1/2 yard of
- 1 yard of knit 1/2″ elastic
- Ballpoint needles
- Acrylic ruler
Steps
Keep in mind that when you’re sewing knit fabric, you need to use ballpoint/jersey needles and a stretch stitch! The above is my favorite, but a zig-zag will work too. Sergers make things quick and easy but you can totally make these with a regular sewing machine.
Step 1- Grab a pair of jogger or legging pants that currently fit your kiddo. Fold them in half so the tag is in the back, as shown above, this will give you more room in the finished fit. Lay them out on the tracing paper and trace them, then add 1/2″ extra along the two curves, where you will be sewing.
Step 2- Cut out the pattern you’ve created and lay it out on your fabric folded in half, lining up with the “fold” line that is straight and has no extra added. Repeat for a second, identical pant leg.
Step 3– Lay your pant leg out flat and cut two cuff pieces that are roughly 4″ tall and 1″ shorter than the leg opening – this is personal preference, you can make it the same size for a looser fit. Be sure that the stretch is going from left to right, the same as the pant leg.
Step 4– Pin or clip each pant leg right sides together and sew with 1/2″ seam allowance down the long, curved leg side. Repeat for the other pant leg.
Step 5– Turn one pant leg right side out so right sides are together, and stuff it inside the other one. Match up the center crotch seams and clip the entire crotch seam, then sew. Picture shown has the left clipped, right not yet clipped, to illustrate RST and how everything is lined up better!
Step 6– Stitch the short ends together of the cuff and press the seam allowance to one side, then fold it so the raw edges are enclosed. Gently insert it over the pant leg and stitch in the round, gently stretching the cuff fabric (but not the pants leg fabric) as you go.
Step 7– Time to cut waistband pieces! Out of the rib knit. cut them 5″ tall and the same length as the waist of the pants, laying flat. Again, make sure the main stretch is going from left to right. Stitch up both short ends with 1/2″ seam allowance, and press the seam allowance to one side.
Step 8– Just like the ankle cuffs, gently layer it over top the waistband so all the raw edges are lined up and clip, then sew. Depending on your kids build and comfort level, this waistband may be enough! If your kiddo is slim or likes things tight, you can loop in some 1″ wide elastic by leaving a gap, threading it in, stitching the elastic together, and sewing over the gap in the waistband. I did roughly 1.5″ shorter elastic than the waistband itself, which then gets shorter still once the edges overlap and are sewn together.
I also like to do a small line of stitching along the side seams to keep the elastic from twisting. You’re done!
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