If you’ve been following me for a few years you’ve likely seen Lion Brand’s now discontinued Woolspun yarn in several of my patterns. It was one of my faves and I used it for my , , , and my entire toboggan collection including the and . I was so upset when it got discontinued because I loved the multi-ply bouncy structure and because it’s SO hard to find bulky weight (category 5) yarns these days for some reason. But then I heard Lion Brand was introducing a brand new yarn called , which is Woolspun’s 100% acrylic twin (I guess that makes it a fraternal twin?) and I was so pumped! There are so many on-trend colors and it comes in a massive ball, too. While it’s already been available on lionbrand.com for a couple months, I’m so excited to announce that it is now available on michaels.com and in select Michaels stores! Make sure to call your local store to confirm they have it as all locations carry different lines.
To celebrate, I’ve teamed up with Lion Brand and designed three brand new patterns using , and I’ll be releasing them one by one over the next couple weeks – starting today! You probably know that (aka scarves, aka shawls) are some of my favorite things to design, and since most of the ones I’ve made in the past are worsted or thinner and more useful for crisp fall or chilly spring days, I knew I needed to add a couple bulky ladies to the bunch for the recent frigid temps in my area.
First up is the Hearthstone Wrap, a top-down tassled knit beauty. Both the Hearthstone Wrap, and the crochet (next week’s release) were inspired by vintage ski sweaters. I wanted a modern update to the nostalgia and coziness of classic patterned ski jumpers without the hassle of intricate colorwork, so in both cases I added just a touch of colorwork as a nod to the OGs. Scroll down for the free Hearthstone Wrap pattern, purchase a printable PDF , or (on sale 20% til 2/14!).
On week three you can expect another knit design – a crazy easy bias knit scarf called the that ends up looking much more complicated and striking due to the uneven striping and bold contrasting colors (well let’s be honest, neutrals). What I love about all three designs is that they can each be worn in multiple ways.
The two triangle wraps can be draped over the shoulders like a wearable blanket, or worn with the point in front and ends wrapped around to warm the neck and chest.
I was picturing coming in from the snow and grabbing one of these babes and a cup of hot cocoa and sitting in front of the fire the whole time I was making them, hence the names.
Finally, the Metro Bias Scarf can be worn long and lean, wrapped once around the neck so the ends hang down, or wrapped twice with the ends criss crossed for maximum warmth.
What I love most about the Hearthstone Wrap though, is a technique I just learned myself called the Latvian braid. I have seen this technique used so many times on very intricate accessories and I always assumed it was a complicated technique that I didn’t have time to learn just yet. But that is not the case! It’s actually a very simple and very clever way of switching two colors back and forth and twisting them as you go along to create the chevrons. The direction you twist determines the direction of the chevron arrows. I could only find instructions for Latvian braids worked in the round so I had to adapt the steps to suit a flat back and forth pattern but I think it worked out perfectly!
The Latvian braid is not the only new skill I learned in designing the Hearthstone Wrap. I’ve been using mosaic knitting techniques for a couple years now, but I’ve never attempted shaping along with the colorwork. My Coast to Coast Wrap is my most favorite piece I’ve worked up in mosaic knitting, but it’s a simple rectangle that doesn’t require any increasing or decreasing. For this wrap, on the other hand, I needed to figure out how to keep the mosaic technique working as I increased every other row on both sides of the center stitch. It took some serious concentration and a couple attempts, but I absolutely love how it turned out and I’m so happy to have upped my colorwork chart game.
This is an intermediate level knitting pattern and the techniques involved are the knit stitch, purl stitch, m1l and m1r increases, slipping stitches, changing colors, mosaic colorwork, and reading color charts.
MATERIALS:
2 skeins in Basalt (195-150) for Color A
1 skein in Caviar (195-153) for Color B
1 skein in Wheat (195-124) for Color C
FINISHED SIZE:
Width across top: 60”/152cm
Length to point: 30”/76cm
GAUGE:
11 sts + 16 rows = 4”/10cm in stockinette
ABBREVIATIONS:
*All Two of Wands patterns are written in standard US terms
CO – cast on
K – knit
M1l – make 1 left
M1r – make 1 right
P – purl
Pm – place marker
Rep – repeat
RS – right side
Sl – slip
Sm – slip marker
St(s) – stitch(es)
WS – wrong side
Notes: Wrap is worked from the top down, increasing 4 sts on every right side (even) row. Pattern is composed of sections of stockinette, reverse stockinette, Latvian braids, mosaic colorwork, and stockinette. A Latvian braid is a simple three-row technique of crossing alternating colors over or under each other to create a braided effect. Coined by Barbara G. Walker in the 1960s, mosaic knitting is a slip stitch technique using two colors. The color worked as the first stitch of the row is considered the dominant color. Each dominant color of the chart is knit (or purled), while the contrast color is slipped. Mosaic knitting can be worked in stockinette or garter stitch, but for the purposes of this pattern it will be worked in a combination of both. Color C will be worked in stockinette, knitting each RS row and purling each WS row when that color is dominant, and Color A will be worked in garter stitch, knitting all rows when that color is dominant. Charts are read from right to left on RS rows and left to right on WS rows. All sts are slipped purlwise with yarn either in back on RS rows or in front on WS rows. The bound off edge forms the outer v-shaped sides and it is important to bind off loosely to prevent this edge from pulling and to allow it to drape nicely.
With color A, CO 5 sts.
Set up rows:
Row 1 (WS): K 2, pm, P 1, pm, K 2.
Row 2 (RS): K 2, m1r, sm, K 1, sm, m1l, K 2. (7 sts)
Row 3: K to marker, sm, P 1, sm, K to end of row.
Row 4: K 2, m1l, K 1, m1r, sm, K 1, sm, m1l, K 1, m1r, K 2. (11 sts)
Row 5: K 3, pm, P 2, sm, P 1, sm, P 2, pm, K 3.
Row 6: K to marker, sm, m1l, K to marker, m1r, sm, K 1, sm, m1l, K to marker, m1r, sm, K to end of row. (15 sts)
Body:
Row 7: K to marker, sm, P to marker, sm, P 1, sm, P to marker, sm, K to end of row.
Row 8: K to marker, sm, m1l, K to marker, m1r, sm, K 1, sm, m1l, K to marker, m1r, sm, K to end of row. (19 sts)
Rows 9-22: Rep rows 7 and 8. (47 sts)
Row 23: K to marker, sm, K to marker, sm, P 1, sm, K to marker, sm, K to end of row.
Row 24: K to marker, sm, m1l, P to marker, m1r, sm, K 1, sm, m1l, K to marker, m1r, sm, K to end of row. (51 sts)
Row 25: K to marker, sm, K to marker, sm, P 1, sm, K to marker, sm, K to end of row.
Row 26: K to marker, sm, m1l, K to marker, m1r, sm, K 1, sm, m1l, K to marker, m1r, sm, K to end of row. (55 sts)
Rows 27-46: Rep rows 7-26. (95 sts)
Rows 47-62: Rep rows 7-22. (127 sts)
Latvian Braid (left-leaning):
Change to color B.
Row 63: K to marker with color B, bring yarn to front of work, sm, join color C, *P 1 with color C, P 1 with color B, rep from * to marker, sm, P 1 with color C, sm, *P 1 with color B, P 1 with color C, rep from * to marker, sm, K to end of row with color B.
Row 64: K to marker with color B, sm, m1l with color B, bring both yarns to front of work, *P 1 with color C, P 1 with color B, rep from * to marker crossing the new color over the previous color to work each st, bring both yarns to back of work, m1r with color C, sm, K 1 with color B, sm, m1l with color C, bring both yarns to front of work, *P 1 with color B, P 1 with color C, rep from * to marker crossing the new color over the previous color to work each st, bring both yarns to back of work, m1r with color B, sm, K to end of row with color B. Note: yarns will become very twisted on this row but will untwist on the following row. Keep floats loose to prevent puckering. (131 sts)
Row 65: K to marker with color B, sm, bring both yarns to back of work, *K 1 with color B, K 1 with color C, rep from * to marker crossing the new color over the previous color to work each st (yarns should be untwisting from the previous row), sm, bring both yarns to front of work, P 1 with color C, sm, bring both yarns to back of work, *K 1 with color C, K 1 with color B, rep from * to marker crossing the new color over the previous color to work each st (yarns should be untwisting from the previous row), sm, K to end of row with color B.
Change to color A.
Row 66: K to marker, sm, m1l, K to marker, m1r, sm, K 1, sm, m1l, K to marker, m1r, sm, K to end of row. (135 sts)
Row 67: K to marker, sm, P to marker, sm, P 1, sm, P to marker, sm, K to end of row.
Row 68: K to marker, sm, m1l, K to marker, m1r, sm, K 1, sm, m1l, K to marker, m1r, sm, K to end of row. (139 sts)
Rows 69 and 70: Rep rows 67 and 68. (143 sts)
Change to color B.
Rows 71 and 72: Rep rows 67 and 68. (147 sts)
Mosaic Stripe:
Change to color C.
Row 73: K to marker, sm, P to marker, sm, P 1, sm, P to marker, sm, K to end of row.
Being chart on below. Chart is read right to left on RS (even) rows and left to right on WS (odd) rows. All sts are slipped purlwise with yarn in back on RS rows and purlwise with yarn in front on WS rows. Color A is worked in garter stitch throughout chart and color C is worked in stockinette stitch throughout chart.
Change to color A.
Row 74: K to marker, sm, m1l, *Sl 1, K 2, rep from * to 1 st before marker, Sl 1, m1r, sm, K 1, sm, m1l, *Sl 1, K 2, rep from * to 1 st before marker, Sl 1, m1r, sm, K to end of row. (151 sts)
Row 75: K to marker, sm, K to marker, slipping all sl sts from row below to maintain color pattern, sm, P 1, sm, K to marker, slipping all sl sts from row below to maintain color pattern, sm, K to end of row.
Change to color C.
Row 76: K to marker, sm, m1l, Sl 1, *K 1, Sl 1, K 3, Sl 1, rep from * to 5 sts before marker, K 1, Sl 1, K 2, m1r, Sl 1, sm, K 1, sm, Sl 1, m1l, K 2, Sl 1, *K 1, Sl 1, K 3, Sl 1, rep from * to 2 sts before marker, K 1, Sl 1, m1r, sm, K to end of row. (155 sts)
Row 77: K to marker, sm, P to marker, slipping all sl sts from row below to maintain color pattern, sm, P 1, sm, P to marker, slipping all sl sts from row below to maintain color pattern, sm, K to end of row.
Change to color A.
Row 78: K to marker, sm, m1l, Sl 1, K 1, *K 2, (Sl 1, K 1) twice, rep from * to marker, m1r, sm, K 1, sm, m1l, K 1, (Sl 1, K 1) twice, *K 2, (Sl 1, K 1) twice, rep from * to 3 sts before marker, K 2, Sl 1, m1r, sm, K to end of row. (159 sts)
Row 79: K to marker, sm, K to marker, slipping all sl sts from row below to maintain color pattern, sm, P 1, sm, K to marker, slipping all sl sts from row below to maintain color pattern, sm, K to end of row.
Change to color C.
Row 80: K to marker, sm, m1l, *Sl 1, K 2, rep from * to 1 st before marker, Sl 1, m1r, sm, K 1, sm, m1l, *Sl 1, K 2, rep from * to 1 st before marker, Sl 1, m1r, sm, K to end of row. (163 sts)
Row 81: K to marker, sm, P to marker, slipping all sl sts from row below to maintain color pattern, sm, P 1, sm, P to marker, slipping all sl sts from row below to maintain color pattern, sm, K to end of row.
Change to color A.
Row 82: K to marker, sm, Sl 1, m1l, K 2, Sl 1, *K 1, Sl 1, K 3, Sl 1, rep from * to 2 sts before marker, K 1, Sl 1, m1r, sm, K 1, sm, m1l, Sl 1, *K 1, Sl 1, K 3, Sl 1, rep from * to 5 sts before marker, K 1, Sl 1, K 2, mlr, Sl 1, sm, K to end of row. (167 sts)
Row 83: K to marker, sm, K to marker, slipping all sl sts from row below to maintain color pattern, sm, P 1, sm, K to marker, slipping all sl sts from row below to maintain color pattern, sm, K to end of row.
Change to color C.
Row 84: K to marker, sm, m1l, K 1, (Sl 1, K 1) twice, *K 2, (Sl 1, K 1) twice, rep from * to 3 sts before marker, K 2, Sl 1, m1r, sm, K 1, sm, m1l, *Sl 1, K 3, Sl 1, K 1, rep from * to 2 sts before marker, Sl 1, K 1, m1r, sm, K to end of row. (171 sts)
Row 85: K to marker, sm, P to marker, slipping all sl sts from row below to maintain color pattern, sm, P 1, sm, P to marker, slipping all sl sts from row below to maintain color pattern, sm, K to end of row.
Change to color A.
Row 86: K to marker, sm, m1l, *Sl 1, K 2, rep from * to 1 st before marker, Sl 1, m1r, sm, K 1, sm, m1l, *Sl 1, K 2, rep from * to 1 st before marker, Sl 1, m1r, sm, K to end of row. (175 sts)
Row 87: K to marker, sm, K to marker, slipping all sl sts from row below to maintain color pattern, sm, P 1, sm, K to marker, slipping all sl sts from row below to maintain color pattern, sm, K to end of row.
End chart.
Change to color B.
Row 88: K to marker, sm, m1l, K to marker, m1r, sm, K 1, sm, m1l, K to marker, m1r, sm, K to end of row. (179 sts)
Row 89: K to marker, sm, P to marker, sm, P 1, sm, P to marker, sm, K to end of row.
Change to color A.
Rows 90-93: Rep rows 88 and 89. (187 sts)
Row 94: Rep row 88. (191 sts)
Latvian Braid (right-leaning):
Change to color B.
Row 95: K to marker with color B, bring yarn to front of work, sm, join color C, *P 1 with color C, P 1 with color B, rep from * to marker, sm, P 1 with color C, sm, *P 1 with color B, P 1 with color C, rep from * to marker, sm, K to end of row with color B.
Row 96: K to marker with color B, sm, m1l with color B, bring both yarns to front of work, *P 1 with color C, P 1 with color B, rep from * to marker crossing the new color under the previous color to work each st, bring both yarns to back of work, m1r with color C, sm, K 1 with color B, sm, m1l with color C, bring both yarns to front of work, *P 1 with color B, P 1 with color C, rep from * to marker crossing the new color under the previous color to work each st, bring both yarns to back of work, m1r with color B, sm, K to end of row with color B. Note: yarns will become very twisted on this row but will untwist on the following row. Keep floats loose to prevent puckering. (195 sts)
Row 97: K to marker with color B, sm, bring both yarns to back of work, *K 1 with color B, K 1 with color C, rep from * to marker crossing the new color under the previous color to work each st (yarns should be untwisting from the previous row), sm, bring both yarns to front of work, P 1 with color C, sm, bring both yarns to back of work, *K 1 with color C, K 1 with color B, rep from * to marker crossing the new color under the previous color to work each st (yarns should be untwisting from the previous row), sm, K to end of row with color B.
Change to color A.
Row 98: K to marker, sm, m1l, K to marker, m1r, sm, K 1, sm, m1l, K to marker, m1r, sm, K to end of row. (199 sts)
Row 99: K to marker, sm, P to marker, sm, P 1, sm, P to marker, sm, K to end of row.
Rows 100 and 101: Rep rows 98 and 99. (203 sts)
Row 102: K to marker, sm, m1l, K to marker, m1r, sm, K 1, sm, m1l, K to marker, m1r, sm, K to end of row. (207 sts)
Row 103: K to marker, sm, K to marker, sm, P 1, sm, K to marker, sm, K to end of row.
Rows 104-107: Rep rows 102 and 103. (215 sts)
Bind off loosely.
Block work. Secure and weave in all ends.
Tassels:
Cut sixty 12”/30.5cm lengths each of colors B and C and six 18”/46cm lengths of color B. Divide the 12”/ 30.5cm lengths into 3 groups of 20 of each color (40 total). Tie each bundle at the middle point with one of the 18”/46cm lengths. Fold each bundle in half so that the tie is at the tip of the loop created with the fold. Tie crosswise around each folded bundle about 1”/2.5cm below top of fold with remaining 18”/ 46cm lengths. Wrap the tails of the ties around and around the bundles and then thread them inside and down the middle of the bundles with a tapestry needle. Tie the tops of the tassels onto the 3 corners of the wrap and knot to secure. Thread the tails inside and down the middle of the tassels using a tapestry needle. Trim tassels to desired length.
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