If you were one of the hundreds messaging me last week to inquire about a crochet version of my latest design, the , then you’re in luck! I present to you, the Fireside Wrap. This fringy girl was also inspired by vintage ski sweaters and worked up in Lion Brand’s new chunky weight yarn. As a sister pattern to the Hearthstone Wrap, the Fireside Wrap has some of the same qualities – top down, striped, texture, and (faux) Latvian braids – but I wanted her to have her own personality so I swapped out the tricky colorwork with striped granny clusters and traded the tassels for fringe. As always, scroll down to find the free pattern, grab the $3.50 printable, ad-free PDF , or !
As I mentioned in my previous post last week, has quickly become a new favorite yarn. It’s a great sub for Lion Brand’s now discontinued Woolspun, and it comes in a massive ball of 247yds/226m which is huge for chunky weight (category 5). Best of all, it’s now available on and at select Michael’s stores across the country so hopefully it will be super accessible to those of us in the US.
It’s been really difficult to find a good chunky weight yarn ever since Woolspun, Wool-Ease Chunky, and Wool-Ease Tonal got the boot, so I’m thrilled to have a yarn like this in so many colors. I cannot wait to design more pieces using it! It makes a project go so quickly, but it doesn’t have the bulk of a super chunky weight so it’s a lot more wearable. And it also makes great blankets! I would love to see my (designed in Woolspun) re-done in a palette. Anyone up for the job? 🙂
When I came up with the concept for the Hearthstone Wrap and Fireside Wraps, I was hanging out in my upstate NY place in the middle of the mountains and there was some serious snowfall happening outside. I was picturing coming in from a day of skiing and snuggling up in front of a cozy fire, and something about it just felt very nostalgic (and well, vintage). I envisioned people in fair isle multi-colored sweaters their grandmothers had knit. At first I was going to translate the idea into blankets (which can also be worn over the shoulders in front of the fire) but I decided I wanted to do something wearable and versatile so triangle wraps it was!
For the I translated the detailed fair isle colorwork from the vintage sweaters into a mosaic knitting design which was more literal, but for the Fireside Wrap I really wanted to evoke the throwback granny vibe so I went with striped double crochet clusters (or “granny clusters”) instead. I learned how to knit the Latvian Braid for the Hearthstone, and I fell so in love with it that I knew I needed to come up with a crochet version somehow. Surface slip stitch crochet looks so similar with the little “v” shapes it creates with each stitch, so I decided to work the surface crochet onto the finished wrap and just alternate colors. I think it turned out so cool and I can’t wait to use this technique on future designs. I’ve never put fringe on a triangle wrap so I really went for it this time and I love how it brings even more of a 70s vibe to the Fireside Wrap along with the touch of grannies. I would love to see this worked up in some wild 70s colors!
I love how a triangle wrap can be styled in different ways. It can be basically a wearable blanket if thrown over the shoulders, or you can wrap it with the point in front so it looks more like a bandana scarf. This is my preferred way if I’m styling it with a large coat, but I actually just wore the Hearthstone Wrap with the point in back (like a shawl) over a little leather jacket to Vogue Knitting Live in NYC last weekend and it looked so cute! I’ve also been known to wear them almost sideways with the ends crossed one in back and one in front while I’m on the couch or at a desk working.
This is an easy level crochet pattern and the techniques involved are single crochet, double crochet, skipping stitches and working into chain spaces, changing colors, and surface crochet.
MATERIALS:
2 skeins in Shade (195-149) for Color A
1 skein in Pomegranate (195-138) for Color B
1 skein in Basalt (195-150) for Color C
1 skein in Birch (195-100) for Color D
FINISHED SIZE:
Width across top: 72”/183cm
Length to point: 30”/76cm
GAUGE:
10 sts + 6 rows = 4”/10cm in double crochet
ABBREVIATIONS:
*All Two of Wands patterns are written in standard US terms
Ch – chain
Ch-sp – chain space
Dc – double crochet
Rep – repeat
Sc – single crochet
Sk – skip
St(s) – stitch(es)
Notes: Pattern is worked in back and forth rows from the top down. Turn at the end of each row. The ch 4 at the beginning of each double crochet and cluster row counts as 1 dc + 1 ch. Pattern increases 6 sts per double crochet row, 4 sts per single crochet row, and 2 clusters per cluster row. To change color, work the last yarn over of the previous stitch in the new color. Stitch chart for rows 1-9 can be found below. Faux Latvian braid is worked in slip stitch surface crochet after wrap is complete in alternating double stranded colors C and D. A photo tutorial for the braid can also be found below.
With color A, create a magic loop.
Row 1: Working into the magic loop, ch 4 (counts as 1 dc + 1 ch here and throughout), dc 2, ch 3, dc 2, ch 1, dc 1. (6 dc, 2 ch-1 sp, 1 ch-3 sp)
Row 2: Ch 4, dc 2 in ch-1 sp, dc 1 in each of next 2 dc, (dc 1, ch 3, dc 1) in center ch-3 sp, dc 1 in each of next 2 dc, (dc 2, ch 1, dc 1) in last ch-1 sp. (12 dc, 2 ch-1 sp, 1 ch-3 sp)
Rows 3-6: Ch 4, dc 2 in ch-1 sp, dc 1 in each dc to center ch-3 sp, (dc 1, ch 3, dc 1) in ch-3 sp, dc 1 in each dc to last ch-1 sp, (dc 2, ch 1, dc 1) in ch-1 sp. (36 dc, 2 ch-1 sp, 1 ch-3 sp)
Change to color B.
Row 7: Ch 1, sc in 1st st, ch 1, sc 1 in ch-1 sp, sc 1 in each st to center ch-3 sp, (sc 1, ch 3, sc 1) in ch-3 sp, sc 1 in each st to last ch-1 sp, (sc 1, ch 1, sc 1) in ch-1 sp. (40 sc, 2 ch-1 sp, 1 ch-3 sp)
Row 8: Ch 1, sc in 1st st, ch 1, sc 1 in ch-1 sp, sc 1 in each st to center ch-3 sp, (sc 1, ch 3, sc 1) in ch-3 sp, sc 1 in each st to last ch-1 sp, sc 1 in ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in last st. (44 sc, 2 ch-1 sp, 1 ch-3 sp)
Change to color A.
Row 9: Ch 4, sk 1st sc, dc 2 in ch-1 sp, dc 1 in each st to center ch-3 sp, (dc 1, ch 3, dc 1) in ch-3 sp, dc 1 in each dc to last ch-1 sp, dc 2 in ch-1 sp, ch 1, dc in last st. (50 dc, 2 ch-1 sp, 1 ch-3 sp)
Rows 10-14: Ch 4, dc 2 in ch-1 sp, dc 1 in each dc to center ch-3 sp, (dc 1, ch 3, dc 1) in ch-3 sp, dc 1 in each dc to last ch-1 sp, (dc 2, ch 1, dc 1) in ch-1 sp. (80 dc, 2 ch-1 sp, 1 ch-3 sp)
Change to color B.
Row 15: Ch 1, sc in 1st st, ch 1, sc 1 in ch-1 sp, sc 1 in each st to center ch-3 sp, (sc 1, ch 3, sc 1) in ch-3 sp, sc 1 in each st to last ch-1 sp, (sc 1, ch 1, sc 1) in ch-1 sp. (84 sc, 2 ch-1 sp, 1 ch-3 sp)
Row 16: Ch 1, sc in 1st st, ch 1, sc 1 in ch-1 sp, sc 1 in each st to center ch-3 sp, (sc 1, ch 3, sc 1) in ch-3 sp, sc 1 in each st to last ch-1 sp, sc 1 in ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in last st. (88 sc, 2 ch-1 sp, 1 ch-3 sp)
Change to color A.
Row 17: Ch 4, sk 1st sc, dc 2 in ch-1 sp, dc 1 in each st to center ch-3 sp, (dc 1, ch 3, dc 1) in ch-3 sp, dc 1 in each dc to last ch-1 sp, dc 2 in ch-1 sp, ch 1, dc in last st. (94 dc, 2 ch-1 sp, 1 ch-3 sp)
Rows 18-24: Ch 4, dc 2 in ch-1 sp, dc 1 in each dc to center ch-3 sp, (dc 1, ch 3, dc 1) in ch-3 sp, dc 1 in each dc to last ch-1 sp, (dc 2, ch 1, dc 1) in ch-1 sp. (136 dc, 2 ch-1 sp, 1 ch-3 sp)
Change to color C.
Rows 25 and 26: Ch 4, dc 2 in ch-1 sp, dc 1 in each dc to center ch-3 sp, (dc 1, ch 3, dc 1) in ch-3 sp, dc 1 in each dc to last ch-1 sp, (dc 2, ch 1, dc 1) in ch-1 sp. (148 dc, 2 ch-1 sp, 1 ch-3 sp)
Change to color D.
Row 27: Ch 4, dc 3 in ch-1 sp, *ch 1, sk 3, dc 3 in next st, rep from * to last st before center ch-3 sp, ch 1, (dc 3, ch 3, dc 3) in ch-3 sp, ch 1, sk 1, *dc 3 in next st, ch 1, sk 3, rep from * to last ch-1 sp, (dc 3, ch 1, dc 1) in ch-1 sp. (40 dc clusters, 2 single dc, 40 ch-1 sp, 1 ch-3 sp)
Change to color B.
Row 28: Ch 4, *dc 3 in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, rep from * to center ch-3 sp, (dc 3, ch 3, dc 3) in ch-3 sp, ch 1, *dc 3 in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, rep from * to last ch-1 sp, (dc 3, ch 1, dc 1) in ch-1 sp. (42 dc clusters, 2 single dc, 42 ch-1 sp, 1 ch-3 sp)
Change to color D.
Row 29: Ch 4, *dc 3 in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, rep from * to center ch-3 sp, (dc 3, ch 3, dc 3) in ch-3 sp, ch 1, *dc 3 in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, rep from * to last ch-1 sp, (dc 3, ch 1, dc 1) in ch-1 sp. (44 dc clusters, 2 single dc, 44 ch-1 sp, 1 ch-3 sp)
Change to color B.
Row 30: Ch 4, *dc 3 in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, rep from * to center ch-3 sp, (dc 3, ch 3, dc 3) in ch-3 sp, ch 1, *dc 3 in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, rep from * to last ch-1 sp, (dc 3, ch 1, dc 1) in ch-1 sp. (46 dc clusters, 2 single dc, 46 ch-1 sp, 1 ch-3 sp)
Change to color C.
Row 31: Ch 4, dc 2 in ch-1 sp, dc 1 in each dc and ch-1 sp to center ch-3 sp, (dc 1, ch 3, dc 1) in ch-3 sp, dc 1 in each dc and ch-1 sp to last ch-1 sp, (dc 2, ch 1, dc 1) in ch-1 sp. (190 dc, 2 ch-1 sp, 1 ch-3 sp)
Row 32: Ch 4, dc 2 in ch-1 sp, dc 1 in each dc to center ch-3 sp, (dc 1, ch 3, dc 1) in ch-3 sp, dc 1 in each dc to last ch-1 sp, (dc 2, ch 1, dc 1) in ch-1 sp. (196 dc, 2 ch-1 sp, 1 ch-3 sp)
Change to color A.
Rows 33-36: Ch 4, dc 2 in ch-1 sp, dc 1 in each dc to center ch-3 sp, (dc 1, ch 3, dc 1) in ch-3 sp, dc 1 in each dc to last ch-1 sp, (dc 2, ch 1, dc 1) in ch-1 sp. (220 dc, 2 ch-1 sp, 1 ch-3 sp)
Faux Latvian Braid (photo tutorial below):
Choose a right side for your wrap. With right side facing up, work a surface crochet slip stitch into the top of row 34, alternating doubled strands of colors C and D in the following way:
To hold doubled strands of colors C and D, pull the center end out of each skein and hold it together with the outer end of the skein.
Starting along one side edge at row 34 just past the first ch-1 sp, insert hook into the first stitch from the front of the fabric through to the back of the fabric and pull up a loop of doubled color C.
Insert hook into the next stitch, again from the front of the fabric through to the back and pull up a loop of doubled color D, then draw that loop through the loop of color C.
Continue working into each following stitch, alternating colors, to create a chain stitch on the front of the fabric.
When you reach the center ch-3 sp, work into each chain as if it were a stitch to maintain the braid.
Tie off when you reach the end of row 34, just before the last ch-1 sp.
Turn wrap so that front of fabric is still facing up but work is going in the opposite direction. Starting at opposite edge, repeat steps for faux Latvian braid into top of row 22. Braid should be facing opposite direction as first braid.
Lightly block work and secure and weave in all ends.
Place doubled strands of colors C and D behind work. To do so, pull out the inner end of each skein and hold it together with the outer end.
Surface crochet faux Latvian braid will be worked into each stitch, just past the first ch-1 space of the row.
Insert hook from front to back of fabric through the first stitch.
Yarn over with color C to pull through to the front of the fabric.
Pull the loop through to the front of the fabric.
Insert hook into the next stitch.
Yarn over with color D to pull through to the front of the fabric.
Pull the loop through to the front of the fabric.
Draw the loop of color D through the loop of color C.
Insert hook into the next stitch and yarn over with color C to pull through to the front of the fabric.
Pull the loop through to the front of the fabric.
Draw the loop of color C through the loop of color D.
Continue in this manner, alternating colors C and D to form the braid.
On the back of the fabric, hold one color consistently below the other to avoid yarns twisting and tangling.
At the center ch-3 sp, work into each chain as if it were a stitch to maintain the braid.
Continue all the way to final ch-1 space of the row and tie off on back of fabric.
Fringe:
Cut 112 strands, approx. 18”/46cm long each of colors B, C, and D and separate into groups of one strand of each color. Evenly attach along bottom slanted edges in the following way:
Fold each bundle in half, and use crochet hook or your fingers to draw the folded loop of each bundle through the top of a stitch in the final row. Draw the ends of each bundle through the folded loop and pull to secure, forming larks head knot fringe. Repeat all along both bottom slanted edges, approx. every other stitch. Trim fringe to desired length.
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