What’s better than a ball of yarn? A GIANT ball of yarn! The new Lion Brand bonus bundles currently exclusive to Michael’s Arts and Crafts have got me dreaming and scheming about all sorts of chunky cozy knits, and I’ve worked up three new designs to get you started on your own DIY winter wardrobe using these mega balls of squish.
First on the list is my favorite of the bunch – the Cambria Wrap, worked up in the new Touch of Alpaca yarn, of which I used single skeins for my . If you know me you know I LOVE a triangle tassel scarf, and this may be my favorite one yet. I wanted to create something huge but lightweight, and I am super happy with the result. I chose a neutral grey for versatility purposes, and because I just love the sophistication of this color.
Top down wraps can get a bit cumbersome with every row adding more and more stitches and seemingly keeping you from ever finishing, so I wanted to add a variety of simple lace stitches to keep it interesting and add some elegance.
The fabric that resulted is lightweight and stretchy and just begs you to burrito yourself in its coziness. I love the squishiness of this when it’s worn as a scarf and the lightweight warmth it provides when draped over shoulders.
Clear out your knitting queue because this pattern is available now and I guarantee you’ll want to get it on your needles immediately. If you’re ready to dive into this pattern, scroll down for the free instructions or purchase the ad-free printable PDF . You can also purchase a kit directly from Lion Brand . I’ll be releasing the other two bonus bundle designs over the next couple of weeks, but check out the teasers below for a sneak peek!
For those of you will an allergy or other aversion to wool, the brand new Lion Brand Thick & Quick (100% acrylic) will be your new best friend. This super bulky weight yarn works up so fast and is incredibly durable, machine washable, and extra cozy. I love oversized everything so my first inclination with this yarn was of course to do something mega chunky. I’ve been doing quite a bit of traveling lately, so I wanted to create something that was bulky and cozy, but flexible and not overwhelming so it wouldn’t be a burden to take along.
Let me introduce to you the Oakley Super Scarf! The open stitch work keeps the scarf less heavy than a solid crochet fabric, and extra width allows you to either bunch it up and loop it around like a scarf or drape it open across your shoulders.
I went with neutral colors again (of course) so I can sport this with a variety of outfits and cut back on the amount of knits for which I have to find places in my suitcase.
Check back next week for this free pattern, or get a head start by purchasing the kit directly from Lion Brand .
Last but not least is the Kodiak Hooded Pocket Scarf, worked up in the age-old classic Wool-Ease Thick & Quick. I’m so excited for the “Urban Camo” color, both because of name and the soft marled hues that blend with the yummy neutral taupe base. In my opinion you can never have too much WETQ, so I plan on stocking up big time on these bonus bundles.
The perfect topper to a fall jacket or a winter coat, the Kodiak Hooded Pocket Scarf is an effortless, multi-functional accessory. Keep your head, chest, and hands warm simultaneously with this one piece, and simply let the hood fall back when not in use.
This pattern is also available as a kit from Lion Brand , and the stand-alone free pattern will be available mid month.
In the meantime get started on the Cambria Wrap below! This is an intermediate level knitting pattern and the techniques involved are the knit stitch, purl stitch, k2tog and ssk decreases, yarn over increases, and working simple lace repeats.
MATERIALS:
FINISHED SIZE:
Width: 90”/229cm
Length to point: 34”/86cm
GAUGE:
12 sts x 16 rows = 4”/10cm in stockinette
ABBREVIATIONS:
*All Two of Wands patterns are written in standard US terms
CO – cast on
K – knit
K2tog – knit 2 together
P – purl
Pm – place marker
Rep – repeat
RS – right side
Sm – slip marker
SSK – slip, slip knit
St(s) – stitches
YO – yarn over
Note: Pattern is worked from the top down and increases 4 sts every odd (RS) row. Wrap is broken up into different sections of stitch patterns.
CO 7 sts.
Section A (stockinette):
Row 1 (RS): K 2, YO, K 1, YO, pm, K 1, pm, YO, K 1, YO, K 2. (11 sts)
Row 2: K 2, P across row slipping markers to last 2 sts, K 2.
Row 3: K 2, YO, K to marker, YO, sm, K 1, sm, YO, K to last 2 sts, YO, K 2. (15 sts)
Row 4: K 2, P across row slipping markers to last 2 sts, K 2.
Rows 5-20: Rep rows 3 and 4. (47 sts)
Section B (eyelet):
Row 21: K 2, YO, K 1, *YO, K2tog, rep from * to marker, YO, sm, K 1, sm, YO, *SSK, YO, rep from * to last 3 sts, K 1, YO, K 2. (51 sts)
Row 22: K 2, P across row slipping markers to last 2 sts, K 2.
Rows 23-28: Rep rows 21 and 22. (63 sts)
Section C (garter):
Row 29: K 2, YO, K to marker, YO, sm, K 1, sm, YO, K to last 2 sts, YO, K 2. (67 sts)
Row 30: K to marker, sm, P 1, sm, K to end of row.
Rows 31-34: Rep rows 29 and 30. (75 sts)
Section D (alternate eyelet):
Row 35: K 2, YO, K 1, *YO, K2tog, rep from * to marker, YO, sm, K 1, sm, YO, *SSK, YO, rep from * to last 3 sts, K 1, YO, K 2. (79 sts)
Row 36: K 2, P across row slipping markers to last 2 sts, K 2.
Row 37: K 2, YO, K 2, *YO, K2tog, rep from * to last st before marker, K 1, YO, sm, K 1, sm, YO, K 1, *SSK, YO, rep from * to last 4 sts, K 2, YO, K 2. (83 sts)
Row 38: K 2, P across row slipping markers to last 2 sts, K 2.
Rows 39-46: Rep rows 35-38. (99 sts)
Section E (stockinette with garter stripes):
Row 47: K 2, YO, K to marker, YO, sm, K 1, sm, YO, K to last 2 sts, YO, K 2. (103 sts)
Row 48: K 2, P across row slipping markers to last 2 sts, K 2.
Rows 49 and 50: Rep rows 47 and 48. (107 sts)
Row 51: Rep row 47. (111 sts)
Row 52: K to marker, sm, P 1, sm, K to end of row.
Row 53: K 2, YO, K to marker, YO, sm, K 1, sm, YO, K to last 2 sts, YO, K 2. (115 sts)
Row 54: K 2, P across row slipping markers to last 2 sts, K 2.
Rows 55 and 56: Rep rows 53 and 54. (119 sts)
Row 57: Rep row 53. (123 sts)
Row 58: K to marker, sm, P 1, sm, K to end of row.
Row 59: K 2, YO, K to marker, YO, sm, K 1, sm, YO, K to last 2 sts, YO, K 2. (127 sts)
Row 60: K 2, P across row slipping markers to last 2 sts, K 2.
Rows 61-64: Rep rows 59 and 60. (135 sts)
Section F (eyelet):
Row 65: K 2, YO, K 1, *YO, K2tog, rep from * to marker, YO, sm, K 1, sm, YO, *SSK, YO, rep from * to last 3 sts, K 1, YO, K 2. (139 sts)
Row 66: K 2, P across row slipping markers to last 2 sts, K 2.
Rows 67-70: Rep rows 65 and 66. (147 sts)
Section G (garter):
Row 71: K 2, YO, K to marker, YO, sm, K 1, sm, YO, K to last 2 sts, YO, K 2. (151 sts)
Row 72: K to marker, sm, P 1, sm, K to end of row.
Rows 73-80: Rep rows 71 and 72. (167 sts)
Section H (eyelet stripes):
Row 81: K 2, YO, K 1, *YO, K2tog, K 2, rep from * to marker, YO, sm, K 1, sm, YO, *K 2, SSK, YO, rep from * to last 3 sts, K 1, YO, K 2. (171 sts)
Row 82: K 2, P across row slipping markers to last 2 sts, K 2.
Row 83: K 2, YO, K 2, *YO, K2tog, K 2, rep from * to last st before marker, K 1, YO, sm, K 1, sm, YO, K 1, *K 2, SSK, YO, rep from * to last 4 sts, K 2, YO, K 2. (175 sts)
Row 84: K 2, P across row slipping markers to last 2 sts, K 2.
Row 85: K 2, YO, K 3, *YO, K2tog, K 2, rep from * to last 2 sts before marker, YO, K2tog, YO, sm, K 1, sm, YO, SSK, YO, *K 2, SSK, YO, rep from * to last 5 sts, K 3, YO, K 2. (179 sts)
Row 86: K 2, P across row slipping markers to last 2 sts, K 2.
Row 87: K 2, YO, K 4, *YO, K2tog, K 2, rep from * to last 3 sts before marker, YO, K2tog, K 1, YO, sm, K 1, sm, YO, K 1, SSK, YO, *K 2, SSK, YO, rep from * to last 6 sts, K 4, YO, K 2. (183 sts)
Row 88: K 2, P across row slipping markers to last 2 sts, K 2.
Rows 89-104: Rep rows 81-88. (215 sts)
Section I (garter):
Row 105: K 2, YO, K to marker, YO, sm, K 1, sm, YO, K to last 2 sts, YO, K 2. (219 sts)
Row 106: K to marker, sm, P 1, sm, K to end of row.
Rows 107-110: Rep rows 105 and 106. (227 sts)
Section J (eyelet):
Row 111: K 2, YO, K 1, *YO, K2tog, rep from * to marker, YO, sm, K 1, sm, YO, *SSK, YO, rep from * to last 3 sts, K 1, YO, K 2. (231 sts)
Row 112: K 2, P across row slipping markers to last 2 sts, K 2.
Rows 113-118: Rep rows 111 and 112. (243 sts)
Section K (seed):
Note: In this section some of the yarn overs may be confusing when switching from a knit stitch to a purl stitch and vice versa. Make sure to pay close attention to ensure that yarn overs are created where indicated.
Row 119: K 2, YO, *K 1, P 1, rep from * to last st before marker, K 1, YO, sm, K 1, sm, YO, *K 1, P 1, rep from * to last 3 sts, K 1, YO, K 2. (247 sts)
Row 120: K 2, *P 1, K 1, rep from * to last st before marker, P 1, sm, P 1, sm, *P 1, K 1, rep from * to last 3 sts, P 1, K 2.
Row 121: K 2, YO, *P 1, K 1, rep from * to last st before marker, P 1, YO, sm, K 1, sm, YO, *P 1, K 1, rep from * to last 3 sts, P 1, YO, K 2. (251 sts)
Row 122: K 3, *P 1, K 1, rep from * to marker, sm, P 1, sm, *K 1, P 1, rep from * to last 3 sts, K 3.
Rows 123-134: Rep rows 119-122. (275 sts)
Section L (eyelet):
Row 135: K 2, YO, K 1, *YO, K2tog, rep from * to marker, YO, sm, K 1, sm, YO, *SSK, YO, rep from * to last 3 sts, K 1, YO, K 2. (279 sts)
Row 136: K 2, P across row slipping markers to last 2 sts, K 2.
Section M (stockinette):
Row 137: K 2, YO, K to marker, YO, sm, K 1, sm, YO, K to last 2 sts, YO, K 2. (283 sts)
Row 138: K 2, P across row slipping markers to last 2 sts, K 2.
Rows 139 and 140: Rep rows 137 and 138. (287 sts)
Section N (garter):
Row 141: K 2, YO, K to marker, YO, sm, K 1, sm, YO, K to last 2 sts, YO, K 2. (291 sts)
Row 142: K to marker, sm, P 1, sm, K to end of row.
Rows 143-146: Rep rows 141 and 142. (299 sts)
Bind off loosely.
Tassels:
Cut ninety 12”/30.5cm lengths and six 18”/46cm lengths of yarn. Divide the 12”/ 30.5cm lengths into 3 groups of 30. Tie each bundle at the middle point with one of the 18”/46cm lengths. Fold each bundle in half so that the tie is at the tip of the loop created with the fold. Tie crosswise around each folded bundle about 1⁄2”/1.25cm below top of fold with remaining 18”/ 46cm lengths. Wrap the tails of the ties around and around the bundles and then thread them inside and down the middle of the bundles with a tapestry needle. Tie the tops of the tassels onto the 3 corners of the wrap and knot to secure. Thread the tails inside and down the middle of the tassels using a tapestry needle. Trim tassels to desired length.
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Purchase the kit from Lion Brand Yarn .
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