French style. Is there anything more coveted? Effortless, chic, sexy, and sophisticated, the timeless appeal of French fashion is undeniable. All at once simple and yet difficult to achieve, it has inspired my own wardrobe and design choices for many years. Maybe the most iconic of it all is the classic beret. In 2016 I tackled the quintessential hat with my crochet pattern. Now I’ve taken it on in knit form and added a couple complimentary accessories to the bunch. Behold the Anouk Accessories Set, available as a free pattern below, a printable, ad-free PDF , or as a kit from Lion Brand yarn .
Made with Lion Brand’s new weightless, airy mohair blend, , these accessories feel light as air, soft, and feminine all at once. They are meant to be worn together, mixed and matched, or donned individually.
From Charlotte Rampling to Cher Horowitz, a beret is always in style. With mirrored centered decreases and an i-cord top loop, the Anouk beret has a classic and clean look. I wanted to stay away from the gathered crown as I feel it always looks a little more like a slouchy beanie than a beret when it is constructed that way. I’ve seen several shaped crown berets that have a spiral, pinwheel style look to them, but ever since I created my with mirrored decreases I fell in love with the technique and I knew I had to use it again here.
I am super into bandanas lately and wear them rolled and tied in front, folded in half and tied at the back with the point in the front, tied around my top knot, added to a purse handle, or wrapped around my wrist. Even though this knit fabric is much chunkier than a simple fabric kerchief, I wanted it to be versatile as well, so I spent quite a bit of time getting it to be the perfect size and density to be able to wear it either with the point in front or rolled and tied as well.
The wristlets included in the set are simple and chic, just like classic French style. I stayed away from any extra ornamentation to keep them modern and sophisticated. They are easy to wear, functional, and attractive!
This is an easy level knitting pattern, and the techniques involved are knit, purl, k2tog, kfb, kpk, m1l, m1r, s2kp, slipping stitches, and working in the round on circular and double pointed needles.
MATERIALS:
FINISHED SIZE:
Beret
Diameter: 10”/25.5cm
Head circumference: 18”/46cm (stretches to fit average size head)
Kerchief
Width: 28”/71cm
Length to point: 15”/38cm
Wristlets
Circumference: 6.75”/17cm (S/M), 8”/20cm (M/L)
Length: 8”/20cm (S/M), 8.5”/22cm (M/L)
GAUGE:
21 sts + 27 rows = 4”/10cm in stockinette
ABBREVIATIONS:
*All Two of Wands patterns are written in standard US terms
CO – cast on
K – knit
K2tog – knit 2 together
KFB – knit into the front and back of the stitch
KPK – knit, purl, knit into the same stitch
M1L – make 1 left
M1R – make 1 right
P – purl
Rep – repeat
RS – right side
S2KP – slip 2, knit 1, pass slipped stitches over
Sl – slip
St(s) – stitch(es)
WS – wrong side
Wyib – with yarn in back
Wyif – with yarn in front
Notes: Beret is worked in the round from the brim up and is shaped with mirrored, centered decreases. The kerchief is worked flat from the bottom up in a triangle shape. The wristlets are written for two sizes: S/M (M/L) and are worked flat and seamed. All sl sts are slipped purlwise.
BERET:
With size US 6 (4mm) needles, CO 92 sts. Join in the round being careful not to twist sts, and place marker for beginning of round.
Rounds 1-10: *K 1, P 1, rep from * around.
Round 11: *K 1, KFB, rep from * around. (138 sts)
Change to size US 7 (4.5mm) 16”/40cm circular needles.
Round 12: K around.
Rep round 12 until work measures 5.25”/13cm from cast on edge.
Begin decrease round for crown shaping (round numbers restart for simplicity), and change to double pointed needles when necessary:
Round 1: K 10, S2KP, *K 20, S2KP, rep from * to last 10 sts, K 10. (126 sts)
Round 2: K around.
Round 3: K 9, S2KP, *K 18, S2KP, rep from * to last 9 sts, K 9. (114 sts)
Round 4: K around.
Round 5: K 8, S2KP, *K 16, S2KP, rep from * to last 8 sts, K 8. (102 sts)
Round 6: K around.
Round 7: K 7, S2KP, *K 14, S2KP, rep from * to last 7 sts, K 7. (90 sts)
Round 8: K around.
Round 9: K 6, S2KP, *K 12, S2KP, rep from * to last 6 sts, K 6. (78 sts)
Round 10: K around.
Round 11: K 5, S2KP, *K 10, S2KP, rep from * to last 5 sts, K 5. (66 sts)
Round 12: K around.
Round 13: K 4, S2KP, *K 8, S2KP, rep from * to last 4 sts, K 4. (54 sts)
Round 14: K around.
Round 15: K 3, S2KP, *K 6, S2KP, rep from * to last 3 sts, K 3. (42 sts)
Round 16: K around.
Round 17: K 2, S2KP, *K 4, S2KP, rep from * to last 2 sts, K 2. (30 sts)
Round 18: K around.
Round 19: K 1, S2KP, *K 2, S2KP, rep from * to last st, K 1. (18 sts)
Round 20: K around.
Round 21: S2KP around. (6 sts)
Round 22: K2tog around. (3 sts)
Begin i-cord loop:
Do not turn. Slide the 3 sts to the other end of the needle. The working yarn will now be at the bottom of the sts. Knit the 3 sts, bringing the working yarn up the back of the work. This is essentially connecting the last st of the previous row to the first st of this row.
Slide the sts to the other end of the needle again and knit the next row, bringing the working yarn up the back of the work.
Continue in this manner, sliding and knitting until the i-cord measures approx. 2”/5cm.
Cut yarn and thread tail onto tapestry needle. Draw tail through sts, removing needle, and pull like a drawstring to close hole. Thread tail through top of hat to interior and knot to secure to form a loop.
Secure and weave in all ends.
KERCHIEF:
With US 7 (4.5) 24”/60cm circular needles, CO 1 st.
Row 1 (RS): KPK. (3 sts)
Row 2 (WS): Sl 1 wyif, P 2.
Row 3: Sl 1 wyib, M1R, K 1, M1L, K 1. (5 sts)
Row 4: Sl 1 wyif, P 4.
Row 5: Sl 1 wyib, K 1, M1R, K 1, M1L, K 2. (7 sts)
Row 6: Sl 1 wyif, (P 1, K 1) twice, P 2.
Row 7: Sl 1 wyib, K 1, P 1, M1R, K 1, M1L, P 1, K 2. (9 sts)
Row 8: Sl 1 wyif, P 1, K 1, P 3, K 1, P 2.
Row 9: Sl 1 wyib, P 1, K 1, M1R, K 1, M1R, K 1, M1L, K 1, M1L, P 1, K 2. (13 sts)
Row 10: Sl 1 wyif, P 1, K 1, P to last 3 sts, K 1, P 2.
Row 11: Sl 1 wyib, K 1, P 1, M1R, K to last 3 sts, M1L, P 1, K 2. (15 sts)
Row 12: Sl 1 wyif, P 1, K 1, P to last 3 sts, K 1, P 2.
Row 13: Sl 1 wyib, K 1, P 1, M1R, K to last 3 sts, M1R, P 1, K 2. (17 sts)
Row 14: Sl 1 wyif, P 1, K 1, P to last 3 sts, K 1, P 2.
Row 15: Sl 1 wyib, K 1, P 1, M1R, K 1, M1R, K to last 4 sts, M1L, K 1, M1L, P 1, K 2. (21 sts)
Rep rows 10-15 until there are 141 sts.
Next row: Sl 1 wyif, P 1, K to last 2 sts, P 2.
Next row: Sl 1 wyib, K 1, P 1, M1R, K to last 3 sts, M1R, P 1, K 2. (143 sts)
Rep last 2 rows. (145 sts)
Next row: Sl 1 wyif, P 1, K to last 2 sts, P 2.
Next row: Sl 1 wyib, K 1, P 1, M1R, K 1, M1R, K to last 4 sts, M1L, K 1, M1L, P 1, K 2. (149 sts)
Bind off loosely.
Block work to prevent rolling. Secure and weave in all ends.
WRISTLETS (make 2):
With size US 6 (4mm) needles, CO 36 (42) sts, leaving a long tail to seam.
Change to either length of size US 7 (4.5mm) needles.
Rows 1-10: *K 1, P 1, rep from * to end of row.
Row 11 (RS): K to end of row.
Row 12 (WS): P to end of row.
Rep rows 11 and 12 until stockinette portion measures 5”/13cm (5.5”/14cm).
Change to size US 6 (4.5mm) needles.
Next 10 rows: *K 1, P 1, rep from * to end of row.
Bind off loosely, leaving a long tail to seam.
Block work to prevent curling.
Fold each wristlet in half lengthwise and using tails, seam for 2.5”/6cm from bind off edges and 3.5”/9cm (4”/10cm) from cast on edges, leaving 2”/5cm un-seamed for thumbhole.
Secure and weave in all ends.
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